A Bite of Fuzhou | Xing Na: The Loquat Remains Silent, Yet Its Sweetness Fills the Branches
It takes about 40 kilometers and an hour’s drive from downtown Fuzhou to Yidu Town. Located in the northwestern part of Fuqing City on the southeastern side of the Daiyun Mountains, Yidu is primarily mountainous and boasts a high forest coverage rate. Its excellent ecological environment has given rise to the renowned “Yidu Loquat”.
Yidu is one of the three main loquat-producing regions in Fujian Province, with approximately 50,000 mu of loquat plantations and an annual yield exceeding 30,000 tons. In 2019, Yidu launched the “Loquat Banquet”, which was later awarded the title of “Famous Fujian Banquet” by the Fujian Provincial Catering and Culinary Industry Association.
Six years later, the Yidu Loquat Banquet has made a grand return this year, attracting a large number of food enthusiasts, some even traveling from places as far as Shanghai and Harbin. While loquats are still in their prime tasting season, this limited-time return of the banquet continues.
Peeling a loquat is like peeling away the clear sunshine of Yidu Town. The golden flesh holds the prologue to summer. One bite of sweet and sour loquat smooths away the final trace of restlessness at the end of spring… So why not, while loquats still hang on the branches, attend this famous Fujian banquet?
Eating Not in the Pursuit of Michelin
In recent years, perhaps due to aesthetic fatigue, I’ve found Michelin-starred restaurants increasingly dull. In contrast, I’ve taken local rural banquets in Fujian very seriously. Both Changle and Fuqing, coastal areas of Fuzhou, are, in my mind, the “two great kings” of rural feasts. The people here have an innate bond with the sea, and they’ve created the most worthwhile rural banquets in Fuzhou.
It was only after moving to Fujian that I experienced the most unique form of banqueting: the rural banquet. In the past, visiting Michelin or Black Pearl restaurants always brought an inexplicable excitement, demanding the utmost etiquette to show respect. But after arriving in Fujian, before attending a rural banquet, I always make sure to bathe, apply incense, and change clothes.
Generally speaking, these rural banquets are held in villages or suburban areas where space is more abundant. This particular “Loquat Banquet” was scheduled for noon. Around 11 o’clock, my friend was already waiting for me downstairs.
We drove along the river, surrounded by lush greenery. The breath of spring was growing freely here. As we chatted, my friend mentioned a recent trip to Japan with her husband. While traveling deep into the mountains, they looked at each other and laughed, saying how much the scenery resembled Fujian. Indeed, many of my local friends have joked that people in Fuzhou never truly appreciate their hometown until they’ve traveled elsewhere for a few days and immediately feel the urge to rush home.
How important is food to people from Fuzhou? As we arrived at the site of the Loquat Banquet, the temporary parking lot was already nearly full with cars driven by attendees, and more shuttle buses were arriving. Some people had indeed come to a small town in Fuqing just for this rural banquet. And it wasn’t just locals. On that day, guests had traveled from as far away as Shanghai, Harbin, and even South Africa.
How enchanting must loquats be to inspire so many people to plan a whole trip for a single meal? I had to find out for myself. The bitter summer is near, but thankfully, we have the loquats.
The Universe Within a Seed, Containing a Golden Cycle
For a Northerner like me, loquat is a true delicacy.
In northern China, there are usually three ways to enjoy loquats. One is at upscale restaurants, where they are served in season as an appetizer. Each person receives only one, and no additional servings are offered. The second is buying them at supermarkets or through online platforms, though the quality is often disappointing, and some fruits are sour to the bone. Lastly, if you have connections in the South, you can receive gifted treats from friends every season.
When I arrived in Fujian, I could eat as many loquats as I could. As our car wound its way through the mountain roads and finally reached Yidu Town, I knew I had achieved true loquat freedom. The hillsides were shimmering with silver bags, each containing a self-contained “universe”. I call them star-like fruits.
When the wind stirs, loquats sway on the branches, and the silver bags resemble springtime prayer charms. Life may offer its share of sourness, but time always finds a way to distill sweetness from it. Yidu Town primarily cultivates the “Zaozhong No. 6” loquat variety, whose fruits are goose-yellow, delicately textured, perfectly sweet and tart, and carry a distinctive fragrance.
Yidu is the kind of place that captures your heart at first glance. Nestled on the border between Yongtai and Fuqing, it lies on the southeastern slopes of the Daiyun Mountains. The relatively high elevation creates significant temperature differences between day and night, and with abundant rainfall and fertile soil, the area is ideal for loquat cultivation. Its unique microclimate is particularly suited for the accumulation of sugars in loquats.
There is no need to envy the green plums in the early summer rain. Just look at the loquats hanging on the branches! Even their bitter pits are wrapped in golden light. Yidu loquats are known for their large size, thick flesh, juiciness, and sweet taste. Loquat leaves are used in traditional medicine, and the blossoms can be added to soups. As my thoughts drifted, the guests of the loquat feast had already taken their seats. The banquet was about to begin.
The loquats have ripened, smoothing out the last trace of springtime restlessness
When I saw the menu that day, I was immediately excited. The village chefs bustled about, and ingredients awaited their final touches. At exactly noon, the host announced the start of the banquet. His speech was brief and to the point, just in alignment with the minds of everyone eagerly awaiting the dishes. I didn’t even bother to look around. I focused intently on studying how the people of Fuqing managed to weave loquats into an entire rural banquet.
Clearly, rural chefs have their way of survival. They never come to your table to serve. Instead, it’s always the aunties from the kitchen team, dressed in brightly colored, matching aprons, who wheel over carts to your table, presenting one loquat delicacy after another. At this moment, no explanation is needed - just raise your chopsticks.
Locally harvested jellyfish heads from Fuqing require only the simplest of seasoning to become the perfect starter. Yidu loquats, combined with wild vegetables, form the ultimate seasonal fruit and vegetable platter. The loquats, without trying to compete, naturally steal the spotlight. Their sweet-tart flavor is the perfect finishing touch. Using loquat leaves and flowers in cooking is standard, but the people of Fuqing also use loquat roots to stew mountain goat. This imparts a unique aroma to the clear broth, which is a beautiful interpretation of traditional cooking methods.
There’s an easy way to spot a Fuzhou local: see if they enjoy drinking soup. If they’re content in front of a table full of soups and broths, then they’re definitely from Fuzhou. Just like tea-drinking, people here drink soups bowl after bowl. The duck soup made with female crabs and Yidu loquat flowers is a must-try. The light sweetness is hard to describe. It immediately envelops you in a sense of clarity and freshness.
The Jiangyin-style braised tofu, a dish from memory, reminded me of familiar Fuqing cuisine. Old-style tofu from Jiangyin is mixed with Fuqing’s seaweed, crabs, Manila clams, and oysters. How could this not be delicious?
Fuqing’s homegrown white shrimp are blanched with loquat leaves. Their unique springy texture carries a subtle sweetness. You probably won’t find shrimp like this anywhere outside Fujian. Fuqing locals are also particular about seasonal timing when it comes to eating razor clams, only at specific times, and the most authentic way to prepare them is with the traditional “clam stabbing” method. The loquat banquet featured razor clams from Jiangjing, perfectly matching the image of my favorite type of small seafood. The crispy whole fish coated with mountain city loquat sauce showcased the sweet and sour flavor of Fuzhou cuisine to the fullest. It was Fuqing’s version of squirrel-shaped mandarin fish. Brilliant!
For Fuzhou natives, lychee sweet and sour pork is a favorite food. Have you ever tried a version with loquat fragrance? Made with heritage black pork and balanced with loquats to offset the sweetness, it was undeniably clever. While almost everyone loves grilled eel over rice, few know that most of the world’s eel supply comes from Fuqing. The “grass-wrapped rice” has a unique plant fragrance. It can be paired with fresh loquats and Fuqing-style grilled eel. Can I request a takeaway box? Fuqing’s handmade clear noodles are another pleasant staple. With the addition of local three-eye crabs, their aroma becomes even more aromatic and irresistible...
The five-grain harvest, a unique Fuqing-style sticky rice roll with loquats and sesame, felt like a local version of fried chop rice cake. Golden abundance is a dish of combined coarse grains with corn, but the presence of loquats made the whole dessert feel like a celebration of spring. The snow swallow dessert shows full sincerity. When it comes to fruits, how could a seasonal platter be complete without loquats?
Season after season, loquats ripen on the trees. The boy stretching on tiptoe to pluck the golden fruit is forever frozen in the memories of spring. As Fuzhou’s endless summer approaches, we’re lucky to still have loquats by our side.
Author: Xing Na
Veteran Media Professional
Lifestyle Writer
Manager of Model Bookstore