Fujian Cuisine on the Rise!
This is a post from A Bite of Fuzhou, written on the last day of 2024, offering an honest reflection on our experiences with Fujian cuisine over the past two years.
When planning this year’s “Fujian Cuisine 100” event, the A Bite of Fuzhou team finalized the event theme - Fujian Cuisine on the Rise!
This year has been especially tough for China’s catering industry. Taking Beijing as an example, data from the Beijing Municipal Bureau of Statistics shows that in the first half of 2024, the total profit of catering service enterprises above the designated size in Beijing dropped to 180 million yuan, marking a year-on-year decline of 88.8%, with profit margins falling to a rare low of 0.37%. Across the industry, a wave of restaurant closures has hit, the “price war” has intensified, and many leading restaurant brands are undergoing major shifts in their business models.
In this context, how can we still say “Fujian Cuisine on the Rise”?
However, as a witness to the development of Fuzhou’s catering industry, A Bite of Fuzhou has genuinely felt the rise of Fujian cuisine. With the support of policies and the tireless efforts of all those in the Fujian cuisine sector, the industry has steadily expanded, practitioners’ understanding has deepened, the influence of Fujian cuisine brands has strengthened, and the “Fujian Cuisine Circle” has grown larger...
Growing influence of Fujian cuisine brands
Fujian cuisine masters showcased classic Fujian dishes
Since 2023, Fuzhou has hosted the “Fuzhou, City of Gastronomy” Fujian Cuisine Promotion Tour in cities including Shanghai, Chengdu, Shunde, Huai’an, and Beijing. In April 2024, Fujian cuisine was also showcased at the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris, further enhancing its international recognition.
The China Hospitality Association issued a recommendation letter to UNESCO, supporting Fuzhou’s bid for the title of “City of Gastronomy”
In recent years, Fuzhou has become the host city for several national-level events in the catering industry, establishing close partnerships with the China Cuisine Association, the China Hospitality Association, and the World Federation of Chinese Catering Industry. This year, it continued to host the China Chef Festival. The China Hospitality Association has named Fuzhou the “China Fuzhou · Fujian Cuisine Landmark City” and issued a recommendation letter to UNESCO to support Fuzhou’s bid for the title of “City of Gastronomy.” In addition, the World Federation of Chinese Catering Industry has granted Fuzhou the honorary title of “International (Fujian Cuisine) City of Gastronomy.”
Michelin Guide Launch Event in Fujian
In 2024, Fuzhou achieved a “Grand Slam” in the catering industry, with its restaurants recognized by the Michelin Guide, the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, and the Golden Phoenix Tree. Currently, 40 restaurants have earned awards from these prestigious guides. According to statistics, Fuzhou now boasts 251 fine-dining restaurants, an increase of 33 compared to last year.
Fujian Dish Fotiaoqiang
In 2024, we further advanced Fuzhou’s bid for the title of “City of Gastronomy.” With over a million votes cast, the slogan “Millennium-old Fujian Cuisine for Global Sharing” was officially chosen for Fuzhou’s bid.
From January to September 2024, Fuzhou’s catering industry continued to thrive with new vitality. The number of market entities in the city’s catering sector approached 60,000, with a total catering revenue of 41.64 billion yuan, a year-on-year growth of over 11.3%. Fuzhou’s restaurateurs, grounded in craftsmanship, have created a path of upward growth, breaking new ground while staying firmly rooted.
Expansion of the Fujian cuisine circle
In 2023, the “Fujian Cuisine 100” Annual Selection and Award Ceremony invited culinary experts from ten cities across China, including Dong Keping, marking the inaugural formation of the “Fujian Cuisine Circle.”
Dong Keping: The Refinement of Local Flavors
Fujian is a southeastern Chinese province known for its mountains and coastal cities, and is traditionally described as “Eight parts mountain, one part water, and one part farmland.” While it is not ideal for traditional farming, its complex terrain and diverse landforms provide a wealth of ingredients for the culinary world. A wide range of elements - ancient and modern, Chinese and foreign - have taken root, evolved, and blended in Fujian, giving rise to the rich diversity of today’s Fujian cuisine. This may well be one of the main reasons why Fujian cuisine is recognized as one of the eight major cuisines in China. The refinement of cuisine is a key aspect of a high-quality, exquisite life and reflects the evolving demands of society. For Fujian cuisine to appeal to mainstream consumers and become a sought-after flavor among urban diners, it must embrace refinement and meticulous attention to detail in its dishes. This is the best and most effective way to promote the taste of home.
Xiao Pang Chi Ba Fang: How Should Fujian Cuisine Expand Its Influence?
Nine years ago, I led a team to Fuzhou and Xiamen in Fujian to shoot the food documentary Looking for the Delicate Flavor. Fujian cuisine’s combination of local mountain and ocean ingredients creates a unique fusion of flavors that is deeply rooted in the region, resulting in a distinctly authentic taste. It’s truly remarkable. Unfortunately, I haven’t yet found a restaurant in Jinan that specializes in Fujian cuisine. Now, as the “Fujian Cuisine Ambassador,” I’m eager to promote the flavors of Fujian in Jinan.
Chengdu Jiu Chi: How can the “new” aspect of New Fujian Cuisine be achieved?
Cuisines, much like language, must evolve with the times to stay relevant. In my view, the “new” in Fujian cuisine lies in maintaining tradition while constantly integrating new ingredients, seasoning methods, cooking techniques, and even advanced kitchen tools. It also involves drawing inspiration from the culinary cultures of more developed dining regions, with an emphasis on cultural packaging, business management, and service awareness.
In 2024, the “Fujian Cuisine Circle” welcomed renowned culinary figures including Hou Decheng, China’s “Father of Western Cuisine,” and Xing Na, a food columnist, further expanding its influence.
Hou Decheng: Fujian cuisine is a bridge connecting Fuzhou to the world
The world has shaped Fujian cuisine, just as Fujian cuisine has influenced the world, especially in Southeast Asia. Thanks to centuries of trade and cultural exchange between Fujian and Southeast Asia, Fujian cuisine has taken root and flourished in the Southeast Asia region, seamlessly merging with local food cultures. Dishes like Fujian-style fried noodles, laksa, fried spring rolls, and Indonesian tofu salad all carry the distinct essence and elements of Fujian cuisine. I’ve heard that Fuzhou is currently bidding for the title of “City of Gastronomy.” I sincerely hope that, throughout this process, Fuzhou can use Fujian cuisine as a bridge to deepen its connections with the rest of the country and even the world. I also wish Fuzhou great success in its bid for “City of Gastronomy”!
Xing Na: So many tasty options
I have attended lots of award ceremonies this year. Now, I’ve finally returned to my home city, Fuzhou. I’ve been living here for almost three years. What stands out to me the most is the abundance of delicious food here. Despite my busy travels this year, every time I return to Fuzhou and enjoy a bowl of laohua (Fujian-style noodle soup) or a warm sip of soup, I instantly feel at home.
The frequent visits of culinary experts to Fuzhou, eager to promote Fujian cuisine and represent it, clearly demonstrate that the soft power and influence of Fujian cuisine are continually growing.
Growing influence of Fujian Cuisine 100
The First “Fujian Cuisine 100” Selection and Award Ceremony
In 2023, A Bite of Fuzhou hosted the First “Fujian Cuisine 100” Selection and Award Ceremony at the Xindian Ancient City Ruins Park, drawing significant attention from the culinary world. This event marked both the beginning of Fuzhou’s history as a city and the launch of “Fujian Cuisine 100.”
2024 “Fujian Cuisine 100 · Mountain and Sea Fujian Flavors List” Selection and Award Ceremony
This year, A Bite of Fuzhou joined forces with the Fujian Provincial Dining Association to host a grand event at Fuzhou Rivercity, the City Reception Center, much larger than last year’s, further expanding the influence of “Fujian Cuisine 100.” After a rigorous evaluation of various dining brands and businesses based on multiple factors such as ingredients, environment, services, culinary skills, and culinary culture, 69 outstanding brands and businesses were honored with the prestigious titles of “Jasmine Restaurant,” “Banyan Brand,” and “Benyang Eatery” at the “2024 Mountain and Sea Fujian Flavors List” selection and award ceremony.
The “Jasmine Restaurant” award is presented to Fujian cuisine dining brands in Fuzhou that inherit the culture of Fujian cuisine and promote the spirit of local Fujian food. This reflects the development direction of Fuzhou’s fine dining scene, offering more options for both local Fujian residents and out-of-town visitors, from five-star hotel restaurants to local Fujian food brands.
The “Banyan Brand” award is presented to small restaurant chains that, much like banyan trees, have firmly rooted themselves in the thriving city of Fuzhou. Rongcheng, a beloved nickname for Fuzhou, is home to many small dining chains that have gained nationwide recognition, with some even expanding globally. These brands, like the banyan tree, establish deep roots while growing and flourishing upward.
The “Benyang Eatery” award is granted to affordable yet delicious eateries that reflect Fuzhou residents’ love and enjoyment of life. It showcases authentic Fuzhou flavors, offering must-try snacks such as fish balls, pork wontons, yuanxiao (sweet glutinous rice balls), and peanut soup. The focus is on traditional Fujian tastes that are both accessible and cherished by locals.
The three awards each highlight a different facet of New Fujian Cuisine, working together to foster the healthy growth of Fuzhou’s catering industry. With the release of these rankings, Fujian cuisine has rapidly become a trending topic in the national culinary world, and Fujian cuisine restaurants have become must-visit spots for tourists looking to experience local flavors.
In 2025, the “Fujian Cuisine 100” series will continue to search for the best Fujian cuisine restaurants and share more stories from the world of Fujian food.
Fujian cuisine is thriving! We must thank all the dedicated professionals in the Fujian catering industry. With the release of the Three-Year Action Plan for Accelerating the Innovation and Development of New Fujian Cuisine (2023–2025) and Fuzhou’s bid for the title of “City of Gastronomy,” the entire Fujian cuisine industry is flourishing.
The theme “Fujian Cuisine on the Rise” reflects a forward-looking vision and plan, inspiring professionals in the Fujian catering industry to turn challenges into opportunities. Through innovation and enhanced service quality, they can achieve sustainable growth for the sector. Every small step of progress and success contributes to the overall “upward development” of the entire industry.
As 2024 comes to a close, we would like to extend our heartfelt thanks to all of you for working together to help Fujian cuisine rise and thrive!