Savor the Delicacies of Luoyuan by Following in the Footsteps of the God of Gastronomy
Chua Lam, one of Hong Kong’s “Four Talented Scholars,” has passed away, but his writings continue to inspire people in their quest for the world’s finest flavors.
Savor the Delicacies of Luoyuan by Following in the Footsteps of the God of Gastronomy
On June 27, a verified social media account of Chua Lam announced his passing on June 25 at Hong Kong Sanatorium & Hospital. His death is a significant loss to the culinary world, as it bids farewell to a true “poet of taste.” Yet, the flavors of Luoyuan, which he so vividly brought to life in his writings, remain as vibrant as ever. Today, let’s follow in his literary footsteps, savoring the rich flavors of Luoyuan, experiencing the chewy texture of stir-fried rice noodles, tasting the fresh richness of Xialin lamb soup, and once again connecting with Chua Lam’s culinary spirit amidst the mountain and sea delicacies.
As one of Hong Kong’s “Four Talented Scholars,” Chua Lam earned the title of “God of Gastronomy” for his unique food insights and vivid writing that captured the flavors of global cuisine. In 2017, he visited Luoyuan in Fuzhou, where he praised the local dishes and captured his experience in his works like A Tour of Fujian and others.
Chua Lam’s love for Luoyuan cuisine is beyond expression. In A Tour of Fujian, he vividly described the stir-fried sweet potato noodles that he could never get enough of, the incredibly sweet stewed eel in wine, and the fresh, crisp oysters. He even referred to the Xialin lamb soup from Luoyuan as “astonishingly extraordinary,” a true testament to his admiration.
Stir-fried Sweet Potato Noodles.
Chua Lam, who had “tasted countless dishes,” once enthusiastically recommended Luoyuan’s stir-fried sweet potato noodles on Weibo, saying, “The dish I love most in Luoyuan is stir-fried sweet potato noodles.”
According to the information, Luoyuan’s handmade sweet potato noodles, made from sweet potato starch, are crafted through a meticulous process. They’re combined with local ingredients such as small clams, lean pork from local pigs, dried bean curd sticks, and cauliflower. The translucent, intertwined noodles absorb the rich broth from these ingredients, creating a tender yet chewy texture and a wonderfully fresh flavor.
Chua Lam couldn’t stop praising the Xialin lamb soup. In his writing, he said, “Just one sip, and you’ll be amazed by how truly extraordinary it is. I’m a huge fan of lamb and have tried it in every possible way, but I’ve never had Xialin lamb soup. It’s made with various herbs, but there’s no trace of any medicinal taste. If the herbs were too strong, it would have felt like taking medicine when you’re sick.” “All I could taste was pure, fresh sweetness—it’s the essence of lamb.”
Xialin Lamb Soup.
As is known to all, Bili Township in Luoyuan is home to a unique breed of goat known as the “Xialin lamb.” Every part of this goat is valuable, but what truly sets it apart is its unusual diet—it’s fond of eating the highly toxic Gelsemium elegans. While this grass is poisonous to humans, the goats are immune to it. Even more fascinating is that the local Gelsemium elegans, soaked in seawater, is naturally salty. After eating it, the lamb’s meat takes on a subtle, salty flavor that’s incredibly fresh. Roaming freely in the rugged coastal cliffs, these Xialin lambs are highly active, and their distinctive lifestyle and diet contribute to the unique characteristics of their meat: less gamey, with minimal fat, a firm texture, and a natural hint of milkiness.
Chua Lam once visited “No.1 Private Kitchen” in Luoyuan. The restaurant owner’s wife recalls that he ordered several signature dishes, including Stir-Fried Sweet Potato Noodles with Seafood, Green & Red Wine-Braised Pork Trotter, Sweet Potato Crab Stew, and Pan-Fried Rice Cakes. Among these, the Sweet Potato Crab Stew is one of Luoyuan’s signature dishes. It features local crabs, rich in both roe and meat, all soaked in a thick, flavorful broth. With each bite of crab roe and meat, it offers a taste that lingers, leaving a lasting impression.
These dishes embody the wisdom of the people of Luoyuan, who live between the mountains and the sea. By using local seafood and mountain ingredients, they create a unique flavor profile. As Chua Lam once said, the essence of life lies in eating and drinking. Luoyuan’s vibrant culinary scene continues to respond to the deep affection of this “poet of taste” with its enduring freshness. The bounties of the mountains and the sea have become the ultimate flavors sought after by food lovers. (Fuzhou Evening News Reporter: Quan Yiyue)