中国·福州——热爱城市从热爱美食开始

Fuzhou is promoting Fujian cuisine culture through a wide range of channels, from books and museums to immersive experiences and digital communication --

Inheritance and innovation ensure the timeless appeal of “Fuzhou flavors”

Currently, it has become a popular choice for many diners and food lovers to enjoy a bowl of Fotiaoqiang at Juchunyuan and immerse themselves in Ju Chun Yuan, Fuzhou’s first full-length novel about the history of Fujian cuisine. “The book shares the stories of several Fujian chefs and explores the history of Fuzhou. My friends and I couldn’t put it down, and we even bought a copy,” said Ms. Li, a diner.

Children explored the process of making Fotiaoqiang at the Fujian Cuisine Culture Museum. (Photo by Reporter Lin Shuangwei)

The story of Juchunyuan is a lively example of Mindu culture moving from the palate to the page. The recently published Ju Chun Yuan, written by Fujian author Lu Yongjian, “traces the history of Fujian through its cuisine.” By intertwining personal stories with the currents of history, it brings Fujian cuisine culture from the dining table to the bookshelf, elevating the tradition of culinary craftsmanship into a deeper spiritual connection. This work presents a fresh approach to the modern spread of Mindu culture.

A recent visit by the reporter reveals that Fuzhou is adopting a variety of methods, from books and museums to immersive experiences and digital communication, to preserve and promote Fujian cuisine culture, ensuring the timeless appeal of “Fuzhou flavors”.

Exploring historical roots:

A dialogue across time and space, from novels to museums

The inspiration for Ju Chun Yuan comes from the collective memory of the Fuzhou people regarding Fujian cuisine. Set between the late Qing Dynasty and the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the novel revolves around the century-old Fuzhou restaurant “Juchunyuan” and the iconic Fujian dish Fotiaoqiang. Through the stories of five generations of Fujian chefs, including Zheng Chunfa, it traces the evolution of Fujian cuisine while also offering insight into the social changes that have shaped the province over the past century.

Lu Yongjian shared that he started conceptualizing Ju Chun Yuan in 2019. “Juchunyuan is more than just a restaurant; it is a symbol of an era and culture. That’s why I chose to use a grand historical narrative, blending the development of Fujian cuisine, represented by Juchunyuan, with the historical context of Fujian. The novel examines how personal destinies and the rise and fall of families are intertwined with the nation’s historical journey.” In the novel, the five generations of Juchunyuan embody the Fujian spirit of “hard work and perseverance,” carrying forward and evolving Fujian cuisine. The joys and sorrows of ordinary individuals vividly showcase the connection between family and country, as well as the relationship between personal lives and the tides of history over the past century.

This in-depth exploration of historical roots gives the inheritance of Fujian cuisine culture a clear and tangible connection.

The Fujian Cuisine Culture Museum, the first of its kind in China, located at the Haixia Olympic Sports Center, has brought to life scenes from the old Juchunyuan restaurant featured in the novel. With details like the heavy stone-paved roads, rustic wooden tables and chairs, and neatly arranged black-glazed wine jars, visitors are immersed in a historical atmosphere, allowing them to experience the former grandeur of Juchunyuan.

The Fujian Cuisine Culture Museum, which opened in 2023, houses over 1,000 exhibits. It is a museum that offers both learning and hands-on experiences, as well as visual and culinary delights. The museum boasts four permanent exhibition halls: Fujian Cuisine Through the Ages, Authentic Fujian Flavors, Feasts from Famous Restaurants, and Promotion and Inheritance. It seamlessly blends exhibitions and displays, historical and cultural insights, hands-on experiences, skill preservation, and food commerce, offering a comprehensive view of the rich history and current development of Fujian cuisine. This makes the museum a new landmark for showcasing Fujian cuisine culture, allowing visitors to truly immerse themselves in the depth and richness of this culinary tradition.

Cultural scene recreation:

“One County, One Table of Dishes” tells local stories

Recently, the “Shouyi Feast” from Minhou was unveiled. This distinctive banquet, rich in cultural heritage and culinary diversity, features traditional signature dishes and local snacks, and incorporates folk customs and historical tales. It offers diners the chance to savor exquisite flavors while immersing themselves in the charm of Fujian cuisine culture.

“The ‘Shouyi Feast’ is truly impressive. With local ingredients as the main components, it highlights regional characteristics in craftsmanship, flavor, and presentation. It vividly showcases the local food culture and customs, offering a feast for both the taste buds and the eyes,” said Chen Xiao, a local resident who attended the “Shouyi Feast” tasting event.

Yongtai’s “Three-Stage Feast,” Gulou’s “Alley Family Feast,” Mawei’s “Navy Yard Feast,” Changle’s “Country Feast,” Lianjiang’s “Lianma Family Feast,” and Luoyuan’s “Abalone Feast”… Fuzhou has integrated the history, culture, customs, and notable figures of each county to create distinctive “One County, One Table of Dishes” experiences, turning regional cuisine into a window for the world to explore the rich culture of Fujian cuisine.

‘“One County, One Table of Dishes’ is more than just a meal; it serves as a reflection of Fuzhou’s rich historical culture and modern food industry. Each dish carries with it a rich historical tale,” said a relevant official from the Fuzhou Municipal Bureau of Commerce.

According to the information, Juchunyuan Group is working to build a Fujian cuisine industry chain through central kitchen standardization, pre-made food research and development, and collaboration between industries in the eastern and western regions. Fujian cuisine has even reached the headquarters of UNESCO in Paris… Fujian cuisine has evolved from a regional flavor into a cultural symbol.

Use of diverse communication channels:

To ensure the timeless appeal of “Fuzhou flavors”

“Hello, could you please pack a portion of ‘Fotiaoqiang’ for me?” Over the weekend, there was a line in front of a stall at the Shan Hai Fu Cuo New Lifestyle Store in Sanfang Qixiang. The “pot” was filled with various nourishing ingredients, such as rabbit-shaped clams, scallops pulling funny faces, and quail eggs symbolizing good fortune in pairs... The plush toy version of “Fotiaoqiang,” with its unique cultural significance and fun shopping experience, quickly became popular after its launch.

Speaking about the design inspiration for the plush version of Fotiaoqiang, He Dan, Design Director of Fuzhou CMStar, explained, “Fotiaoqiang is an iconic Fujian dish. Our concept was to ‘reproduce the authentic taste with plush,” and we wanted to present Fuzhou’s distinctive Fujian cuisine culture via plush toys.”

The plush toy version of “Fotiaoqiang” has become a favored souvenir among young visitors to Fuzhou. On social media, users have enthusiastically shared and promoted it. According to He Dan, the widespread popularity of this cultural creation reflects the preservation and celebration of traditional culture.

Fuzhou’s cultural innovation is also evident in the cross-disciplinary integration of communication methods: “A Bite of Fuzhou” uses text and new media to share Fuzhou’s Fujian cuisine culture with the public, establishing a strong brand and influence in the industry. The series of short films, including The Vaguely Dream in Hokchew and Records of the Festival Days in Fuzhou, produced by the “Shen Lou Zhi” team use Fuzhou’s ancient residences as settings and the local dialect as a bridge to restore the customs of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Among them, Lotus Picking recreates the Dragon Boat Festival, featuring captivating scenes with traditional music and willow-leaf paddles slicing through the water, which has sparked widespread discussion among netizens.

When the story of Juchunyuan comes to life beyond the pages of a book, and the flavor of Fotiaoqiang is expressed in the form of a plush toy, Fuzhou demonstrates through innovative practices that Fujian cuisine culture is not a relic of the past, but a vibrant, ever-evolving living tradition. (Fuzhou Daily Reporter: Yan Xiao)